It’s a man’s world

Before men’s liberation, a movement which originated with David Beckham’s hairdresser, diamonds were a girl’s best friend. Man’s best friend was a dog. Thankfully, that has all changed – with a vengeance.

Graff proved that in Basel. Although the luxury brand didn’t have an official presence at BaselWorld, company representatives were in the city to display its new luxury timepieces at a nearby hotel.

And what a dazzling display. The Diamond MasterGraff Tourbillon, this year’s novelty, has 634 diamonds, 15ct on the dial alone. The edition is limited to 30 pieces.

The extraordinary gemsetting skills of Graff craftsmen are on display with radiating baguette diamonds on the face and the famous mosaic setting on the bezel.

The mosaic setting is created by rows of hexagonal diamonds set off by triangular diamonds. To gemset a bracelet is some feat. Lightness and flexibility are imperatives, so the level of expertise is amazingly high.

Graff’s Geneva-based watchmaking operations are in the hands of technicians and professionals who are more concerned with a brilliant tourbillon than with a brilliantcut diamond.

Take the 43mm MasterGraff Ultra Flat Tourbillon, using the new proprietary Calibre 4, with a limited production of 50 pieces. Although the signature emerald triangle adorns the dial, there is not a diamond in sight –except on the crown. There is always a diamond on the crown.

By accommodating a flying tourbillon in an ultra-thin watch, Graff signals its commitment to be a serious watchmaker. The hand-wound movement is just 3.5mm thick and the case just 7.05mm. The signature faceted case design is interpreted in rose gold or platinum, with white, black or dark blue dial. Diamond models are executed in pure platinum 1000.

Given its brief history in haute horology, Graff has delivered on its commitment, with technological developments in each new collection. The company’s first appearance as a watchmaker was at BaselWorld 2009, and since then, it has presented new movements, for example in the GyroGraff and the diamond-set Skeleton, and developed Graff Calibres 1, 2, 3 and now 4.

This year, Graff rings in changes, presenting pink gold, white gold and DLC (a matte black) versions of the GraffStar Date, and blue and white mother-of-pearl versions of the MasterGraff Minute Repeater.

For men, Graff has watches in three collections – Technical, Dress and Sport – plus a bespoke category, and offers a sumptuous Jewelled Watch Collection for women.